Friday, March 20, 2009

HONG KONG

Global Adventure-Part Four

HONG KONG
-Jackson Blair

Hong Kong may well be the most fascinating city in the world.

It is big, boisterous, shiny, proud and growing every day.
It does not remind me of New York, Chicago, San Francisco or Los Angeles.

It is a city unto itself.

If I were making a small replica of Hong Kong, I would collect those cleaning canisters, like Comet, and paint them white. I would set thousands of them close together on flat land and on hillsides. I would paint small squares, representing windows, on every canister. Hong Kong is like one huge collection of round apartment buildings. There are thousands of them, and hundreds of thousands of people in each one of them.

When you are on the streets of Hong Kong, there are people everywhere. If you could simply stand above and look down you would see the resemblance to a busy anthill. Everywhere you look there are people, and they are all going somewhere.

Of course, the traffic is horrible. The sign of wealth here is that you have a driver. No one wants to have the responsibility of driving, navigating and parking in this behemoth of a city.

Another thing that surprises most visitors is the lack of houses, or homes. You do not even see mansions here for the very rich. People who want land, of any size, live in the suburbs. There is no place, and no interest in any housing that would be horizontal here. This is a vertical town.

On one of my first visits to Hong Kong I dined with a family of some means. They had a Mercedes and a driver and they owned their own company. So imagine my surprise when they told me that the apartments were so small most people had to choose between having a washer or a dryer, space would simply not permit both. That explained the lines of clothing always hanging outside the apartments on the terraces, floor after floor, often reaching 60 stories into the sky. Now when I see that, I am reminded that those folks decided on a washer. They let the wind do the drying.

Most visitors to Hong Kong travel up to an area known as the Peak. The Peak sits atop the highest mountain and provides an incredible view of the entire city below. You can drive up a long winding road to get to the Peak, but most tourists prefer to take the cog railroad. When you are on the Peak and you are looking down it is hard to believe there could be that many people living in such a confined space.

A visit to the Peak after dark is an incredible experience. Then you are looking down on the city when all those apartments are lighted, and all the ships in the harbor are lighted, too.

Fantastic view.

Hong Kong claims one of the busiest harbors in the world. Perhaps it is the busiest. As you drive into the city from the airport you pass hundreds of shipyard locations where containers are being unloaded or loaded onto freighters for trips all over the world. The big cranes required for this kind of work line the waterfront for miles.

When you look out at the South China Sea and you see so many freighters, you also see cruise ships, private yachts and small sampans bumping along and sharing the same churning water.

While it is a pleasant sight, this is also dangerous territory. Hong Kong is said to be the home of many dangerous triads. “Triad” is their word for “mob”. With the huge waterfront, the gambling across the pond at Macau, and the international trading ,it is not surprising that this element has a foothold here.

Homegrown triad members are not the only concern. On an earlier visit, some friends took us out on their large yacht. It had a crew of about six and had three staterooms with large beds and beautiful furniture. We sailed to an island out in the South China Sea and docked to have a dinner at an open-air restaurant.

I commented to our host that he must have enjoyed some really wonderful trips on weekends or vacations on the yacht. He commented that he had never slept on it and probably never would. In answer to my inquiry as to why this was the case, his one word answer was: pirates.

Evidently, folks in Hong Kong with multimillion-dollar yachts only spend nights on them if they go in unison, tie up together for the night, and hire armed guards to stand by the rails.

I couldn’t help but think this fellow would be better off with a Winnebago!

For all the hustle and bustle on the streets of Hong Kong, when one enters the hotels or fine restaurants things slow down significantly. The Chinese are proud of their attention to service and every flower is studied before it is placed on a table, each dish is presented in a previously agreed order, every dirty dish is removed and replaced with a new one prior to the next course, and even the serving is done with as much grace as one could expect from a ballet dancer.
Hong Kong is a fabulous place to visit. That said, it is no more China than New York is representative of what America is like.

As I continue my travels in smaller cities in the Far East, I realize just how different the sophisticated, cosmopolitan, international jet set in Hong Kong is from the remainder of this vast land.

My trip has taken me to Guangzhou and Shenzhen, two of the other largest cities in China. Before I depart China I will also visit Shanghai, Dalian and Beijing.

Fortunately, my wife and I had previous visits to Guilin and Xi’an and we have seen how the more typical Chinese live.

Would you want someone to visit America and stay in New York, Dallas and Los Angeles and then assume they knew America and Americans?

Do yourself a favor. If your travels take you to China go and see The Great Wall, the Terra Cotta soldiers, and the Peak in Hong Kong, but don’t miss out on a trip down the River Li in Guilin, or a visit to the small school houses where the children sing to you, a Tai Chi lesson conducted with a group of others in the early morning along a river bank, or a great foot massage in a small village outside Beijing.

MACAU-former Portuguese Colony, Now Gaming Mecca

Global Adventure, Article Three

Global Adventure; Article Three

MACAU

Jackson Blair

I made my journey from Hong Kong to the island of Macau on a Super jet Hovercraft. It takes about 60 minutes and you travel across the South China Sea in a comfortable leather seat with good views of the water. A small meal and beverages are served.
The sea is unpredictable here so the ride can be rough or smooth.
When you arrive in Macau you hustle through customs and then head out to one of the most interesting islands in the world.

Macau’s history traces back to the time before the birth of Christ.
Most of Macau’s familiar history traces back to the rule of Portugal and the trading business that was centered there.

Wikipedia offers some really interesting facts about Macau:

“Macau is the most densely populated area in the world.

Macau has one of the lowest birth rates in the world.

In 1962 with the issuance of a monopoly license to Stanley Ho the gambling business became paramount on Macau.

When the monopoly ended in 2002 several casino owners from Las Vegas entered.

With the opening of the Sands Macau, the largest casino in the world as measured by total number of table games, in 2004 and Wynn Macau in 2006, gambling revenues from Macau's casinos were for the first time greater than those of Las Vegas Strip making Macau the highest-volume gambling centre in the world.

In 2007, Venetian Macau, at the time the second (now third) largest building in the world, opened its doors to the public, followed by MGM Grand Macau. “

I have had the pleasure of visiting Macau on a number of occasions. On some of these visits my wife has accompanied me. While most people immediately think of the casinos when you mention you have been to Macau, I have only been in a casino on Macau on two occasions.

The Portuguese architecture of this lovely island is not to be missed. The old buildings, especially the churches, the cobble stoned walkways, and the beautiful statuary are outstanding.

Macau also can claim some of the finest restaurants you will encounter anywhere.

Finally, the shopping in Macau is outstanding as the prices are quite cheap, especially for clothing. When you shop in the United States you will often see a “Made in Macau” label in what you are purchasing.

I have friends who are in the construction business on the island. As you can appreciate, with the great building that has occurred with all the new casinos, and the subsequent need for new apartment and condominium buildings, they are enjoying a very profitable life. They are proud of Macau and so pleased to be part of the growth there.

Over my past five visits, it seems Macau just continues to grow. Each time I get off the ferry there are new buildings, larger and more colorful than before. With the new casinos comes a great many jobs. So even though Macau has a very low birthrate, the population continues to grow with the entrance of gaming company workers.

When I encounter visitors from America in Macau, they are usually on shore from one of the many cruise ships that regularly dock in Hong Kong harbor and send their travelers over to Macau by ferry to gamble and shop. Gambling, other than horseracing, does not occur in Hong Kong.

Visits to my friends in Macau are always fun. They make any visit an occasion for celebration. Every meal is held in a private room in one of the restaurants. All members of the family are in attendance. We dine from a common lazy susan that is heavy with foods of all kinds. Everyone tells stories and engages us all in conversation. As one would guess, fresh fish is typically the menu item of choice.

On most occasions, after dinner, we all head out to another place to sit and have coffee and dessert and continue the conversations. On the second stop, the ladies and children tend to disappear, leaving the late night gathering to the men.

When you finally return to your hotel, you are more than ready for bed. That said, my wife and I could always be enticed to go with the group for a foot massage.

I never encountered foot massages prior to visiting China. If you have never had a foot massage, you are really missing something.

A foot massage business consists of several chaise lounges. They are dimly lit, and soft and quiet music plays in the background. You sit on the lounge, you are provided with hot tea or bottled water, whichever you might prefer, and then someone washes your feet in very hot water, kneads and rubs your foot and your lower leg for an hour.

It starts as simple and pleasurable massage and graduates to harder and more vigorous massage. It is not unusual to fall asleep while this is occurring. Your whole body rests, as the different bones of your foot and ankle are each treated by expert fingers, fingers that know every important pressure point.

Considering how wonderful we feel after one of these sessions, I am surprised that it has not caught on in much of the rest of the world.

As I said earlier, the restaurants are wonderful. With the kind of clientele the casinos bring to Macau, standards are pretty high.
However, if you eat in the neighborhood establishments, as we often do, you will be confronted with some dishes very different from those you encounter at the casinos and hotels.

In one restaurant the waiters brought a giant turtle to the table. The turtle had been killed and cubed and then carefully reconstructed.

Accompanying the turtle was a large pot of boiling water with some sort of flavoring. This was a version of what we know as fondue. You were to stab a cube of turtle with your chopstick, hold it in the boiling water and then eat it. The taste was not bad but it seemed a lot like I was chewing rubber.

After eating in a number of restaurants where they pride themselves on bringing you the entire fish, where the fish retains eyes and fins and bones, I came to realize that this is all part of wanting guests to understand that everything is fresh.

For this reason, they ask you to select a fish from a large tank when you enter a restaurant. When you make your selection, the fish is alive and enjoying his last swim. Perhaps the reason they present him to you at the table in all his glory is so you will know they actually did cook the fish you selected. Personally, I have absolutely no need to know the fish intimately, they can substitute any fish they want for the one I picked from the tank, and I would appreciate their removing all identifying features like, faces, eyes, fins, bones, and innards!

I didn’t find this very appetizing.

Imagine my happiness when at one restaurant I found they had chicken salad on the menu. I quickly ordered the chicken salad and relaxed knowing that I would not again have to fight with the fishes.

The waiter brought me a huge plate of chicken salad.

Unfortunately, sitting on the top of my plate of chicken salad was the head of the rooster that had been killed to make my salad.

This was worse than the fish. No one should have to look this closely at a beheaded rooster no matter what country they are visiting.

Dining on Macau is a challenge for squeamish eaters. I am a squeamish eater. I spend a lot of time raving over the wonderful soups, the rice and any noodle dish I can find. I am afraid I am a major coward when it comes to culinary adventures.

On this visit my friends took me to The Venetian Hotel and Casino. I have never encountered a casino this large. In addition to the gaming tables, every major clothing brand seems to have a store here.

No expense was spared in constructing this gaming Mecca. I toyed with the idea of sitting down at a blackjack table but I couldn’t find any with a minimum bet that I would be comfortable making. I have had some great times in Las Vegas at the $2 and $5 blackjack tables. If you are looking for those in Macau, stay home. They have to pay for these palaces somehow!

I do want to close with the thought that if you visit Las Vegas, or Macau, and every time you do they are building more casinos, why would you think the “odds” there were in your favor?

I think P.T. Barnum had the answer! One really is born every minute.